The silver paper might not detect a leak, either caused by the holder or the camera, because it is so slow. If you do try to test this way make sure that you give the test several minutes, perhaps as many as twenty.
We started making double baffle film holders last year and have so far made them in 7X17, 8X20 and 12X20 size. The double baffle is better because it , 1) makes the baffle installation itself much less trick and more sure, and 2) prevents light leaks caused by improprer insertion and removal of the dark slide.
In my experience in trying to trouble shoot leak problems reported by users of our holdrers I have found that about 85% of the time the problem is one of improper fit of the holder in the back or other camera leaks.
Unfortunatley, some of the leaks are due to the holders, or the way the holders are used. If you remove the dark slide and look up through the baffle against a very bright light you should see any direct light leaks. However, some light leaks may take place in taking the dark slide in and out of the camera, and by reflected light when caution is not taken to shield the baffle side from direct light when inserting and removing the dark slides.
As always I stand ready to repair or replace any S&S holders that cause user problems and have asked Scott to return this particular set of holders to me. I would add that these particular holders were sold as seconds because of cosmetic damage, though from my best understanding the cosmetic damage should not have caused any problem with function.
One further note, just on good practice and not meaning to reflect on any person's exposing practices in the field. However, I am surprised in working with LF and ULF workers in the field how many just remove the dark cloth from the camera when they are ready to expose the negative, and just leave it off when inserting and removing the dark slides and exposing the negative. Regardless of what camera or holders you are using this is very bad practice as the weakest link in the system will always be exposed with this technique, whether it be a small pinhole in the bellows or a leak in the holder. My own procedure is to create to the extent possible an absolute dark tent around the camera and holder. That way, regardless of the condition of the camera or the holder, I come back with a good negative with no fogging from light leaks.
Originally Posted by photomc
Last edited by sanking; 05-09-2006 at 10:51 PM. Click to view previous post history.