Whitey, all this is great information (and I did read it on the other thread, also).

Unfortunately, it doesn't resolve my main issue with buying paper remotely: I have to buy a bunch of it to dilute the shipping cost, and then if I don't like it or it doesn't work for the process I'm working on, I've got a bunch of waste that's too rough and stiff to make good toilet paper.

BTW, the "fiber reinforced" I was talking about (wherever that was) is something that's done for cheap padded watercolor papers so they don't have to be mounted before painting -- there's a layer of fiberglass mesh embedded in the paper to control swell and shrinkage and keep the paper from curling as it dries. When I learned watercolor in high school (in 1977 or 1978), we had to wet the paper and then tape it to a board with water-activated brown paper tape, and let it dry, before we could paint -- which is kind of limiting if you want to do watercolor sketching in the field. The fiberglass reinforced paper doesn't require that.

I recall hearing about paper in blocks when I was in high school, but haven't ever used it; not sure I've seen it.

My problem is coming down to this: I'm a photographer. I didn't think I'd need to become a paper expert to be able to make 19th century process prints. And I'm very reluctant to buy a bunch of paper that a) I can't handle before buying, and b) I don't know for certain will work for what I need (lots of papers, seemingly those with buffering or the wrong kind of sizing, develop a brown fog when coated with silver nitrate bearing solutions like salt print or VDB).

Just the Dick Blick home page you linked is depressing -- there are 20+ different kinds of paper on there, and I'm not even sure what kind I want, much less how to tell, over the web, if the paper I select will fog when I try to coat it.

As for "cold" vs. "hot" press -- I'm just repeating what's on the cover sheet of the pad...