Quote Originally Posted by dweccl
I hear a lot of folks are using the Jobo processors. For film, it seems fairly straight forward - a temperature controlled bath and timed agitation of the canister. For prints, I'm a little confused. It seems you can only have one print in the tube at a time (this much is straight forward). However, I also read on Jobo's site that the tube must be completely dry before loading another print. This seems like it would be excruciating if working with test prints/proof prints or any kind of prints in quantity. It also seems to auto dump the chemistry after use. Doesn't this oxidize it? What if you want to reuse/replenish the chemistry? If those of you who use a jobo print processor could comment on how your process works, I'd appreciate it.

Lastly, I'd like to consider temperature control. I've heard pros and cons about using room temperature chemistry vs standard RA4 chemistry. Again, the jobo processor would resolve this issue. However, for those who use trays for prints or just use a hand tank for film, how do you resolve the temperature issue? Do you fill your entire sink with a temperature controlled bath? If so how do you control the temp? How concerned do I have to be with "hot spots" near the heating element and temperature fall off the further I get from the heating element? What parts of the chemistry do I need to keep hot - just the developer or does everything need to be at a constant temp?
Here's my take on your questons (please keep in mind that while I have done some home RA4 I mostly do R3):

Oxidation when pouring the chemicals out of the tube: it undoubtedly does oxidize the developers, but I just replentish 25% above schedule and it seems to work fine. Except for the blix. It needs oxygen.

Temperature control is most exacting when developing film, as there is no coming back from a mistake there; you can always reprint paper.

With RA4 the developer tine is very short (a minute) so I've always had a bigger problem with getting the timing right than getting the temperature right.

Tubes don't need to be completely dry, just dry enough to get the print in. If the tube is very wet it will stick, and if there is liquid pooled at the bottom you might affect the development of the paper that has been wetted longer, especially if you are not wetting the paper very long before adding the developer.

Anyway, here is my page on color chemistries: http://wilson.dynu.net/chemistries.asp