Thats much too complicated, and the Kodak formula leaves out some important facts.

The emulsion should be diced after chill setting unless you use a potato ricer. If you do use a ricer, it must be heavy duty.

The emulsion can then be washed in ice cold distilled water using a piece of the toe portion of panty hose.

You wash the diced emulsion in DW and then wring it dry by squeezing the panty hose with a twisting motion to wring out the excess water. The emulsion will always become more dilute in this step. This is why I use another method entirely, but EK didn't want to publish this method for some reason.

Now, when you test the emulsion, it will be about 3 - 6 ISO speed due to the lack of sensitization. Modern photo grade gelatin does not contain any sufur compounds in it, and food grade, with these sulfur compounds has so many additives that it is unusable.

I've basically updated this quite a bit and the formula I post in this forum gives much information on this.

You have to wash until there is virtually no indication of halide in the wash water. You can test for this by taking some wash water and dropping in a drop of silver nitrate solution. If it is cloudy, then there is too much halide present. If you smell ammonia (I cant remember if this formula uses ammonia or not) then it is not washed enough regardless of the silver test.

If there is an ammonia odor, then hardeners used when you coat the emulsion will not work properly as the emulsion is too alkaline. You may want to adjust the pH in that case to about 6.5 with 5% sulfuric acid.

When you add the silver nitrate to the salt, they should be at the same temperature or you need a good heating system to maintain the temperature. When making large batches of emulsion, we had the opposite problem. They would tend to heat up when the reaction takes place. This entire exercise in temperature control is called 'enthalpy' and is a very important subject in emulsion making.