I printed 2 cyanotypes yesterday. One with a previously made pictorico negative for palladium printing and a linear step tablet (no currection curve) on the ultrafine. Both images were placed in the same contact frame and printed at the same time (2 8x11.5 in pictures in one 16x20" frame) A couple of observations:
1. the palladium curved I had used previously on the pictorico really sucks for cyanotypes
2. the pictorico is a thicker substrate than the ultrafine which leads me to believe that the ultrafine may print sharper as it is thinner (this makes sense to me, but I have no hard proof).
3. I could see no quality difference between the two prints based on the films used. They both created an image and neither inhibited the process.
4. They printed at about the same speed judging from the color under the clear film outside of the image.
5. I needed to bring the images inside sooner, but this has nothing to do with either of the films. I wasn't sure what the color was supposed to stop so I left them out there about twice as long as needed and bleached my images out. I did get a very nice linear scale from the step tablet without a correction curve, though I did use a colorized negative (my own color formulation).
6. I think I coated on the wrong side of the paper--stonehenge rising.
I will be trying this again today with the step-tablet and leaving it outside less to try to get a deeper blue. I will report back when they're done. Also, if anyone would like some info about the process I used for my negs let me know. On the ultrafine a black negative, Burkholder's 0:55:55:0 colorized was grainy, and Keith Schreiber's 0:45:100:51 were all too grainy looking. I am using a Canon S9000 so choosing Schreiber's brown color and printing did not give me a green negative, but a brown one just like on the screen. Damn Canon for giving us good print drivers! So I took the image he had uploaded on his website of the scanned green negative, saved it, took a color sample from the outside edge, and used that for my color index. When printed I had the same green negs that I have on the pictorico from Clay Harmon's Epson 1280.
I am using Brad Hinkel's method of building a personal correction curve.
By the way, does anyone know of if double-coating cyanotypes helps?