Kevin, I have used Rodinal off and on for about 35 years. It can be used with an acid stop bath or with a plain water rinse. It really doesn't care which you use. With most films, I dilute rodinal 50:1 (1 part Rodinal to 50 parts water) to make a working developer solution. The Rodinal concentrate has a very long shelf life. Search this forum for Rodinal references, there are a lot of them.Originally Posted by kjsphoto
Getting familiar with developer formulas and mixing your own from scratch is the most flexible way to go IMO. A lot of formulas have been published on this forum and there are a lot of them on the Unblinking Eye website and others.
As a general rule, I use a water rinse instead of an acid stop bath when developing film. I use an acid stop bath when developing prints.
I use non hardening fixers with both film and prints. Film and prints wash faster and with less water when a non hardening fixer is used. I am currently using Photographer's Formulary TF-4 alkaline, non hardening fixer.
You can easily mix your own alkaline, non-hardening fixer. Ole has published an excellent alkaline, non-hardening fixer formula in an APUG thread. When I run out of TF-4, I will start mixing Ole's brew.
However, for the time being, you can get started with a bottle of Rodinal and a bottle of either Ilford Rapid Fix, Agfa Rapid Fix or Photographer's Formulary TF-4 alkaline non hardening fix. These non hardening fixers all can be used to fix both film and prints.
For a print developer, Kodak Dektol is a safe choice. D72 from Photographer's Formulary is essentially the same as Dektol. In addition, the official formula for Kodak D72 is available, so you can mix it yourself. In a pinch, you can develop prints in Rodinal (search for the APUG threads on this subject).
Keep film and print fixing baths separate. Don't use a batch of fixer that has been used to fix film to also fix prints. It will probably stain the prints.