Quote Originally Posted by kjsphoto
OK,

AS I have been reading more and more I see that with Pyrocat-HD you do not need a chemical stop bath or Hypo-Clearign agent if you use Tf-4 or a Rapid fixer like Ilford.

So my question is that if I use a developer like Rodinal or TMax can I use T4F fixer? Also if I use say Ilford rapid fix do I need a chemical stop bath or will water work and in this case will I need a hypo-clearing agent?

Right now I am using;

TMAx developer - Changing to Rodinal once I run out.
Koday Indicator stop bath ( Do I need this if I use a Rapid fix or TF-4 )
Ilford Rapid Fixer
Koday Hypo Clearing Agent ( Do I need this. If not do I need to wash negs for 30 minutes )
Ilford Wetting agent.

I just am a bit puzzled as I have been reading and notice how with a non-Hardening fixer (TF-4) you do not need a stop or HYPO-clearing agent. But will this hold true for all developers being used?

Any advice is appreciated as I am trying to get my head artound this before I buy chemistry.

I tell you what I learned back in College 15 years didnt teach me anything like this. It was D76, Stop bath (chemical), Fixer, Hypoclearing, wash.

Thanks again,

Kev
You wrote:"I just am a bit puzzled as I have been reading and notice how with a non-Hardening fixer (TF-4) you do not need a stop or HYPO-clearing agent. But will this hold true for all developers being used?"

With regard to the stop bath, for almost all film developers the answer is YES, it holds true. You do not need an acid stop bath

The exceptions are extremely active developers with very short development times (3 minutes or less). It is unlikely that you will be using developers of this type. With fast film, undiluted D76 and high solution temperatures you might encounter this problem, but you can always dilute D76 1:1 or 1:3 and avoid the problem that way (dilution will extend the development time).

It is also true that you do not need to use Hypo Clearing Agent with film. It doesn't hurt to use it, but it increases your washing time. However, it can be helpful for removing the red antihalation dye that Kodak puts into TMX & TMY films.

With regard to washing times, I recommend that you follow Ilford's washing procedure. Here is a link that gives an independent evaluation: http://www.geocities.com/ResearchTri...gra.html#fwash

Download the .pdf file, it has a lot of good stuff in it about washing film and prints. You may want to skip the science in the first 6 pages and go to the recommended procedures in pages 7 and 8.