The last couple of trips out there, we've spent time on Molokai'i, which we really like. No crowds, and the locals are pretty resistant to development.

One thing that struck me was how many people seemed to practice some art, music, or some traditional craft. The manager of the waste water treatment plant (great spot for bird photography, not in your travel guide) is a painter. I saw another guy who kept his ukulele in his truck and took time to practice whenever he was parked waiting for something. One of the regular musicians at the Hotel Moloka'i, which is the spot for live music, is also a baggage handler at the airport. There's an excellent portrait painter there named Stanley Ort who also runs a gallery in Kaunakakai and has his studio on the East side of the island. Most of his portraits aren't for sale--I get the sense that he's more interested in building a body of work and doesn't need the money. Lots of local artwork (a few photographers--not many) to be seen also at the Kamakana gallery there, and if you read the artist bios, most of them are ordinary folks who have other jobs on the island.