that interesting Don.
Im very new to Pyro developers. This was my very first experiment with it.
In regards to the Stop Bath. I was following the Photographers Formulary Tech Data sheet that stated:
STOP AND FIXING BATHS
A plain water stop bath is excellent for all normal films and developers. Use a large volume of water and agitate roll and sheet film continuously. Use of an acid stop bath will strip the pyro stain.
We recommend using our TF-4 non-acidic fixer (cat. no. 03-0141), since fixers with hardening agent will decrease the image stain, therefore, the use of non-hardening fixers is necessary. Do not use TF-4 with an acid stop bath. Do not exceed manufacturer's recommended fixing time.
PYRO AFTER BATH
Place all negatives direct from fixer, into the used developer for two minutes. Agitate every 30 seconds. The alkali after bath induces the formation of stain in the developed negative. An alternative alkaline after bath can be used if desired. The use of 5 grams of sodium metaborate per liter of water is the alternative.
Wash film in running water for 20-30 minutes. Wash all films for at least 20 minutes. The image stain intensifies during the wash cycle.
Im curious if they are just being overly precautionary and that acidic stop baths are actually workable. (as they must be given Dons expereince)
Im just a little at a loss as to the discoloration and and ghosting that seemed to be evident in the negatives.