There seem to be two differences in our materials. 1) I have the old lot of Azo...before the plant change, and 2) I used Don's formula as written, but with 4 grams of Citric Acid to prolong tray life. With the Seagul I got very nice, slight warm tones...and its a cold tone paper as far as I know. I toned them in selenium 1:3 and they went back cold. The Azo developed to a neutral --> slight cold tone.....its kind of hard to tell. Now for one, my negative may have been bit too contrasty since I usually tend to go slightly over in my development of them. I don't know for sure though b/c I don't own a densitometer. I think next time I use the developer, I will have one tray with all catechol and no pyro, and the other with the formula you experimented with. I'm sure one will give me the print that I like from the negative, and work well as a soft developer. If you have any more trials with this developer or various combinations of it, please post your results. Thanks!