First off, thanks everyone for your replies, all suggestions are welcome.
Just to keep focused, here are the goals as a hierarchy:
CONTACT PRINT USING AVAILABLE EQUIPMENT
VARIABLE CONTRAST PAPER
And again, the major problem:
WHITE SPECS SPOILING IMAGE
Solutions and consequences tested so far:
AVOID THE GLASS = no dust but poor sharpness (discussed later)
DIFFUSE THE LIGHT = no dust but poor sharpness
Things that DON"T work or are impossible:
DUSTING THE NEGATIVE UNDER SAFELIGHT. Won't work in my darkroom, it is too dark, you can't see the dust. The negative and glass have to be dusted under a high-intensity light for me to see the dust specs.
ASSUMING THE ENVIRONMENT IS DUST FREE. I already have a Honeywell (http://www.apug.org/forums/437328-post428.html. Its a great Idea to hook it to a timer to run it at night. I already have humidity control with dehumidifier, a humidifier (for different times of the year) and a sling phychrometer and a 'dial gauge' hygrometer to monitor humidity. Goals are 55 in the summer and 45 in the winter. (Without intervention the summer humidity is 65-70 and the winter humidity is 25-30)
Things yet to test:
1) PRINTING FRAME that allows one to 'pre-dust' the negative and mount it inside the frame and keep it there (nice an clean) while the back is subsequently removed and replaced repeatedly to make the test and final prints.
2) MORE PRESSURE on the glass/negative/paper unit, perhaps even vacuum or a well designed printing frame. This would allow the use of a diffuser between the enlarger and the negative.
3) OTHER LIGHT SOURCE MANIPULATIONS. Brunner's post gave me some ideas. I have a couple extra dichro. heads that could be turned into a dedicated VC light source...
The printing frame is going to be the most difficult to test because I don't have one yet I suspect that suggestions on this forum will be the most important factor in avoiding the problem of having to buy or make 2 or 3 frames to get a good one. So far Bostikc-Sullivan is tops on my list (but only from reading posts). Still about a day or two from being ready to buy one 'sight unseen' off the internet, again suggestions welcome.
Since this thread is remote from the original camera restoration thread, realize that, although I could afford any camera/lens I wanted, the goal of the 8x10 restoration was to get up and running at a cost that was consistent with the original price of the camera ($5.00 US). So it is like a challenge. Therefore, some 'controlled-light source-vaccum-printing' apparatus for $2000 is not in keeping with the spirit of the project (unless, of course I can build it myself .
Last edited by ic-racer; 10-23-2007 at 11:19 AM. Click to view previous post history.