As stated previously - roller transport machine.

First clean the machine. Take out the rollers, then the turbulator plates - those are the flat plates that the chemicals are pumped over to make a thin laminar flow of chemicals. The will either be stepped or have small "pins" that stick up.

Take the end caps off of the stainless portion of the turbulators and look down & make sure there are no obstructions and that all of the holes in the stainless diffuser arre open.

Clean the rollers, clean the turbulator plates. I like to use a weak PhotoFlo in water solution and a very soft nylon brush on both the plates and rollers. There may be some silver plating on the roller after the developer tank and inside the developer tank. That's okay - not much you can do about it.

Rinse the tanks out with warm water & make sure the drain hoses are not plugged. Put everything back together & fill it with warm water. Turn the machine on and make sure you have water flowing over the turbulator plates.

Put the top back on the machine and let it run for 30 minutes. Check the first tank (developer) to make sure it is at 80F - 83F. Now you will know if the heater is working.

I like to run the chemicals at 85F. You can easily adjust the temperature. If you are facing the loading door end of the machine with the cover off, there will be a small cap on the top, left side of the machine. Pop the cap off. You will see a screw driver adjustment on the end of a small rod. That's the temperature control. Clockwise = hotter. You won't have to adjust it much to get it to 85F. Let the machine run with the top on again for about 20 minutes to make sure it's at 85F.

The three tanks are: developer (1), bleach (2), fixer (3). They each take 2 liters. Purchase the chemicals as the P-30 kit.

When you are ready to print, mix up the chemicals and load the tanks. If you're careful, you can take the top off and pour them directly into the tanks - don't splash or you can contaminate the chemistry.

Put everything back together - turn it on and wait 30 minutes for the machine to warm up and stabilize the chemistry temperature.

Expose the paper - load it into the machine emulsion side down. Once the paper is pulled into the loading area. You can close that door and turn on the lights - it's light tight.

Wait for the machine to spit the prints out at the other end. Wash the print for 5-7 minutes, squeegee off BOTH sides. Dry with a hair dryer (work prints) as the print will change color. Dry BOTH sides. The print will look red in the shadows until dry. If the back of the print is wet there will be a light magenta cast to the wet area.

The chemistry will process 32 8x10 inch prints (or equivalent in square inches). The chemistry will actually work better after about three 8x10's are run because the developer needs some silver in it. Run test prints at the beginning, run good prints in the middle (prints 4 - 20), run more test prints again at the end - the colors will shift very slightly towards the end of a run (about 5cc red) so you want to be doing exposure tests and basic filtration tests at the end of a run.

You can leave the chemistry in the machine over night - I wouldn't leave it longer than that - the developer oxidizes.