I and many others like the Fotokemika Varycon and Emaks papers available from Freestyle. Pretty subdued compared to some of the more colorful ones which also can be toned down a notch as development continues and contrast increases. I'm thinking of some prints I recently made on Forte Polywarmtone and the results were markedly different depending on exposure and development time. I've a bunch of examples of these in my galleries. Feel free to PM me with any questions.
Have fun and enjoy living in the question