Quote Originally Posted by jeroldharter View Post
I think split contrast printing technique helps alot to naturally take care of these situations without alot of tedium.

For situations like grass, don't forget filters during the film exposure, e.g. using a deep green filter to lighten the values in the print.

Bleaching is fun but slow and sometimes difficult to reproduce in multiple prints.
Yes, 'Xmas' raised this point too. Split grade printing is great for getting your filtration and exposure matched to the negative and gives you the best 'correct' starting point, so any D&B manipulations you make thereafter are 'interpretive' rather than 'rescue'.
However, it doesn't give you a filtration that you couldn't get (if you knew what it was) by dialling it in, although it will give you more control than half grade filters.
however, it also allows you a second level of control for local contrast adjustment, as you can choose to dodge during either the Gr00 exposure or the Gr5, thus altering the ration of the 2 filters exposed to the dodged area, thus lighteneing and shifting contrast up or down simultaneously.
There really is no point in using anything but the 2 extremes of filtration for this though. It will give you everything in between (this is the basis of the Heiland split grade unit). Using 'no filter' and a filter just narrows the range available to you.

The point about bleaching is that it is a different tool and can do what split grading cannot do, so each have their place and can complement each other.
Tim