Hi Marco Ė Iíve tried to answer your questions belowÖ

Quote Originally Posted by Marco B View Post
Although it's not specifically mentioned in either of these articles, since the Pt/Pd process is mostly UV sensitive, am I right that you can, and do, coat and work under normal light conditions (so not save light but a normal light bulb)?
Yes, I have a ordinary tungsten bulb in my darkroom which is always on when Iím printing. I try to avoid direct strong artificial light and any daylight to minimise risk of fogging. A simple test to see if youíre getting fogging is to coat two sheets one in the dark and one under normal working conditions. Develop them without exposing to a UV source and see if you can tell the difference.

Quote Originally Posted by Marco B View Post
And how big is the risk of fogging paper, for example through an (open) window by strong (UV rich) sun light?
The simple answer is donít allow daylight into your workroom because itís hard to tell how much UV is bouncing around. Otherwise try the fogging test above.

Quote Originally Posted by Marco B View Post
What development times can be expected / are roughly necessary if I want to try developing under sunlight conditions / outside? (I realise this is very much depended on all kinds of variables, like weather, season, and position on the globe)
Do you mean development time or exposure time? The former is one to two minutes depending on paper surface, absorbency, etc. The later entirely depends on your negatives and strength your of UV source. My starting time is always 3 minutes but thatís meaningless unless youíre going to use my lightbox with the same tubes.

Quote Originally Posted by Marco B View Post
Is it practical at all, to use sunlight?
Yes, many past photographers used sunlight. But itís a lot less predictable and Iíd recommend buying or building an artificial UV source.

Quote Originally Posted by Marco B View Post
How long can all of the chemicals be kept? Considering the high price, it would be a major waist of money have to throw away Pt/Pd chemicals, because I have not used them up in time. Can they be kept for months on end in their original concentrated form? And working solutions?
Powdered chemicals last forever (or as close to forever as youíll notice); likewise Pt/Pd solutions. Ferric Oxalate in solution should comfortably last a couple of months (depending on storage conditions). I rarely have Ferric Oxalate in solution for longer than a two or three weeks so I can't say for sure when it goes off (and it's very cheap so I'd rather throw it away rather than risk using it if it's a bit old). Potassium Oxalate lasts in solution until it evaporates or is carried off by the paper into the clearing process. Typically 600cc lasts me perhaps 12 or so prints. Potassium Dichromate lasts ages (I think).

Quote Originally Posted by Marco B View Post
And lastly: how about dodging and burning in? Since this is a contact printing process using UV light boxes, I guesse d&b is out of the question? This also implies negatives must be more or less "perfect" in terms of contrast (so no areas requiring major work)?
On the other hand, since it is contact printing, the printing process itself is likely much more sensitive, and will pick up both highlight and shadow detail that would be lost in silver enlarging printing? Is this right, so there is simply inherently much less need for dodging and burning?
Iíve never needed to dodge or burn a print. Pt/Pd copes with highlights very, very well. That being said I work indoors under artificial light so I never have unusual lighting conditions Thereís no reason not to dodge and burn if you want to, but remember that thereís loads of UV flying around so wear serious eye protection (your retina have no pain nerves so you only find out that youíve got sunburn when they stop workingÖ). Given youíre using sheet film it makes sense to learn the zone system and develop your negatives properly rather than dodge and burn extensively.

I hope that helps you. And good luck printing.