There is nothing wrong with higher grade papers at all. The whole idea behind trying for a negative that prints on grade 2 comes from a time when there were no (or very few) multicontrast papers, and settling on grade 2 was just a goal to make things more convenient. Grade 1 is a low contrast paper, grade 3 and up are higher contrast, and grade 2 is "normal". I regularly print on grade 2 and then decide grade 3 would look better. The grade of paper or contrast filter depends on what looks good to you. Trying for a negative that prints well on grade 2 gives a "middle of the road" starting point. Then you pick a grade that looks good overall. A lot of times, the lighting conditions at the time of exposure will have a big effect in the grade you finally use. You can use Zone methods, but you will later still make a choice as to the paper. "Zoning" will keep the negative from being blown out or blocked up, and later will just make it easier to print without needing extreme grades. To me, Zones are mostly about getting all the "data" you can get onto the film, and then getting that "data" onto the paper. What you then do with it is your choice.