Quote Originally Posted by Tom Smith
Thanks for all the views David and Steve. It's always good to hear from others - I'm certainly learning more about diversity of opinion on this website than photography!

I think I'm leaning more to David's position on ilfochromes, but that's my bias - I love the textural glossiness and richness inherent in the depth of an ilfochrome. Squirted ink on the scratchy surface of a rag, varnish or no varnish is okay - really. And I've only got a college education. I was just taken by what this pro' said about ilfochromes because I never really thought about it . I guess his clients preferred photographic prints made by traditional processes - ilfochrome being one distinguished one........over the home-made printer which more and more photographers are resorting to (even film-based ones). Commercial organisations who buy up photos for libraries etc aren't going to really care now. Are they?

"It's the artist that matters, and NOT the printing media."

By gum, when I read that. I happily agree with you but the fact you had to write such an obvious point makes it funny. I'll have to remember that for aspiring artists: Go fetch! You can do it ! Get the Andrex canvass out!"
Yes, I can understand your interest in Ilfochromes. I've worked with the material for over 20 years. Specifically because of the unique glossy surface, and the semi-metallic look to some of the colors. As with any material, it has some shortcomings, but you accept that as part of the process when you make the choice of materials. I guess after working with the Ilfochromes for that long, I'm now looking at other options for my color images.

I think you will find that 90 percent or so of the transparencies will require a contrast mask. They're so easy to make that you shouldn't even give making them a second thought - just do it. Use 3-M 835 (? - comes in a blue box from the art store) graphic arts tape to fasten the mask to the transparency. The tape will not dry out and will not leave an adhesive residue, even if left for extended periods of time (I have some that have been taped together since about 1985).

Also, if you can still get DEZ additive (an Ilford product) - use 30ml in the 2 liters of P-30 developer. It helps reduce streaking (if you're using a CAP 40 processor) and makes the colors a bit cleaner.