I dont really have reciprocity rules or adjustments when it comes to Efke PL100 (or Classic 400, my other film of choice). I base my exposure on varying SBR levels that I encounter. For example, if I measure the low EV to be 2 and high EV to be 10 and I want to stop down to say f. 64 I would expose for about 25 minutes. How I came about his is through trial and error (mostly) and interpolation from other SBR levels. I find this to be more exact than simply having the meter tell you how long to expose and then add on extra stops for reciprocity adjustments. I would also point out that my exposure and development times are specifically tailored to printing on AZO paper, and would certainly result in negatives that are too dense and contrasty for enlarging paper.