dynachrome, I'm still shooting 135 KM, don't need or even like Velveeta. EVS and EB don't come close. E100G doesn't come closer either, but a 2x3 E100G shot has to be enlarged less than half as much as a 135 KM shot to get the same print size and E100G is better than half as good as KM. For me, at least, that ends the discussion.

I examine my shots with a good 8x magnifier or a stereo microscope. I don't need to scan to see what they contain. My 35 mm KM shots don't enlarge well to 8x10. Experienced guests tell me that I'm too critical of my own work; they see strong images where I see unacceptable fuzziness. From a couple of feet they look fine, from 10" they don't pass muster (according to me). Projected they look very good.

Just about anything will print well at small sizes, even really crappy digital.


35 mm, usually 105/2.8 MicroNikkor AIS on an FM2n. Flash illumination by a pair of Minolta Electroflash 20s on a Spiratone Macrodapter. I shoot at what I've decided are too small apertures, have to put ND gels on the flashes. I shoot the 105 with flash hand-held. Very occasionally a 40/4.5 Luminar on Minolta Compact Bellows on the FM2n (lots of adapters at both ends of the bellows), always from tripod with 2-axis rail.

2x3, Pacemaker Speed Graphic with 100/6.3 Neupolar or 4"/5.6 Enlarging Pro Raptar, occasionally with a longer process lens, e.g., 180/9 Apo Saphir. Depending on the situation, available darkness, a single handheld Vivitar 283 with VP-1, or a pair of 283s with VP-1s on a bracket I made. Am just testing another smaller Jones macro bracket (very rare) that holds a pair of small flashes with ND gels. Always from tripod, usually with 2-axis rail.

I aim for 8x10 prints. Starting from a 2x3 tranny, this means that I can't shoot at apertures smaller than f/16 (set, effective is usually considerably smaller).