CD4 Color Film Developer
This may (or may not) be of interest to someone out there that has on hand the basic chemicals needed for mixing up C41 color developer. This formula came about because of having tried Dignanís split C41 and then having left over chemicals (and curiosity). Toying with Dignanís recipe led me to searching the web for any C41 information I could find written by PE.
All the C41 information I could find posted by PE was very helpful and I really appreciate his contributions, just as I do everyoneís. Iíve found that without a doubt that he is correct in his assertion that the best C41 processing is done with the chemicals and procedures specified by Kodak. No surprise.
However, Iíve stirred up a mix that is at this point in time satisfactory for at least 2 color films, and Iím working to nail down the mix for the remainder. Iím putting this online now because it is time consuming to determine what mix works for each film, and I thought that perhaps if someone else had interest that they might work on a film of choice to them, and share with us all any success that they might have. The two films that Iíve found the Ďmixí for at this time are Fuji Superia 200, and Kodak Gold 400. Iím very close on Fuji Superia 400 and 800. It could be that what Iíve found to work for the Fuji 200 and the Kodak 400 would be satisfactory for XP2 and for the Kodak BW400CN, but Iíve not tried them.
The main variables that are changed for each type of film are the amounts of potassium bromide and potassium iodide. Wrong amounts of the bromide and iodide will cause color casts(usually yellowish), small to large, depending on the amount of error in the chemicals. Changing the amount of CD4 and/or potassium carbonate as well as the time in developing will change the contrast and/or density. In all my tests, I only used Ďsnipsí of a couple of frames in order to conserve film.
You will need sodium sulfite, CD4, 10% potassium bromide solution, 1% potassium iodide solution, potassium carbonate, and water. Very, very helpful to me are a stainless steel set of four fractional teaspoon measures. I got them from a kitchen specialty shop, they are labeled something like a Ďpinch, dash, smidgen, or dropí and they are actually quite close to being 1/8, 1/16, 1/32, and 1/64 teaspoon.
The formula used for Fuji Superia 200 and Kodak Gold 400:
Water 500ml @ approx 112 degrees
Sodium Sulfite (A) .5 grams (approx 1/8 tsp)
CD4 .35 grams (approx 1/8 tsp)
Potassium Iodide 1.8 milligrams
Potassium Bromide .25 grams
Potassium Carbonate (A) 4 grams (approx 2/3 tsp)
You need to have everything ready in order to get it into the water quickly. There is no water bath! Just be sure you have water at 112 degrees F (within a degree or two) when you begin to add the chemicals. Iím sure that most of you will be working in a room that is somewhere near 72 degrees F and the ambient temperature will drop the temperature of the developer quite a bit during development but that is ok. If your area is really cool, you may not be as successful with this method.
So, with film loaded in the tank and ready, and with 112 degree F water in a container, quickly add and stir each chemical in order. The mix will clear quickly after the potassium carbonate is added and stirred. Pour it into the tank, and AGITATE GENTLY AND CONTINUOUSLY FOR 8 MINUTES. Pour out(discard) the developer, pour in the C41 bleach(which is @ room temperature) and bleach for 10 minutes. Empty the bleach back into its container and wash the film for 5 minutes. Empty the water, pour in the C41 fixer(@ room temperature) and fix for 10 minutes. Empty the fixer back into its container. Wash the film for 5 minutes, then stabilize and dry.