Normally, you would place the area in the shadows where you want to see detail on zone III (or maybe zone IV for a film with a longer toe) and see where the highlights fall, and adjust development time to bring the highlights up or down. Since this is a still life setup, you can shoot a sheet of film, process it, and if you don't like it, shoot another one.

There are things you can do with a few simple lights. Say your bulb in the aluminum reflector is the main light and you've got a household lamp as fill. Moving a light closer to the subject will make it softer and relatively brighter, while moving it away will make it harder but relatively less strong. Say you want a higher contrast ratio, you can reduce the fill by using a neutral density gel or whatever diffusion material you have handy (translucent cloth, paper, etc.) or by moving it farther from the subject. If you want the main light to be more specular, move it back, and reduce the fill by adding neutral density or diffusion.

Is your spare room a small space with white walls? That will also reduce contrast by giving you unintended fill from overspill. You can control this by using black cards to flag the light from where you don't want it to come.