Another vote for Foma. I have been experimenting with Fomatone MG and despite the fact that it is so slow I find it give excellent tonality and the print colour can be easily modified depending on developer choice. I like the way it dries with minimal curl and its response to both selenium and gold. It does not have the red colour that I used to get when toning Forte Polywarmtone in Selenium. Have a care not to overdo the toning though. Overtoned in gold it is not attractive.
Also Adox fineprint VC. A neutral paper that agian is responsive to various developer types. Not as receptive to selenium but does tone to aubergine, I have yet to try it in gold toner.
The RC version also tones quite readily and this makes it useful as a proofing paper.