Quote Originally Posted by Ara Ghajanian
Well, is it? I'm new to the Zone system (I used to just bracket and choose the best exposure), but I want to delve into it and master it properly. I can't afford a spotmeter at the moment, but I do have a Sekonic L328 digital meter (I'm looking into getting the 5 degree spot attachment for it. By the way, is 5 degrees enough?). Also, I've got a Hasselblad 500CM with only one film back. Should I have 3 backs in order to fully take advantage of development control or can I get away with just one?

Thanks in advance. I can always count on you guys and gals for the best advice.
If your Sekonic can measure incident lighting then you can probably get by without buying the spot metering attachment. I recommend reading the BTZS by Phil Davis.

You can get by with only one back as well. The way to do this is to target your normal development for a grade three contrast. Use paper grade four and occasional selenium intensification of the negative for N plus (low inherent contrast) subjects. This method will give you up to an N plus one and one half density range increase without the typical increase in grain. You can then use proportional exposure for your N minus (high inherent contrast) subjects. This will give you a N minus two to three contraction of density range while maintaining good print high value separation.

All of the above amount to adjustments in exposure and maintaining a definite and consistant development procedure. The Zone system as proposed by AA and others requires altering development times. It is possible to accomplish the same or better results without going down that road.

Aren't you happy that you now have to spend no additional money to produce prints of incredible luminoscity and brilliance.