Crossprocessing to achieve skin tones is a bit like swimming up a waterfall. The nature of crossprocessing is that it reduces latitude, blocks up quickly and returns moderate to strong colour cross over.

If you're happy with everything else in the frame going off the charts then it is possible. You will need flat lighting. I can tell you which film I would think is best for this (kodak ept/160t or e200 or in 35mm only kodaks 1600), but I think you'd be better off running some tests. Shooting chromes is pretty exacting, crossing chromes requires even more precision. If I tell you that I have had luck w/ x film at x exposure in x conditions that would be a start, but not much better than you running some tests your self.

Kodak films will be slightly better than Fuji (fuji's films turn way green/yellow). Older kodak films (EPP, EPN, EPR) suffer from blue yellow cross over. Newer kodak films go green. When you filter out the green you'll get nice pink skin add (read subtract from the filter pack) some yellow and you'll have really really warm skin tones.

You can forego the attempt to reproduce proper skin tones, meter normally and get blown out skin and warm shadows.

You can get as close as possible and ask your lab to the get as close as possible.

You can mitigate some of the contrast by slightly over exposing (.25 - .5 stop) and pulling the film a full stop. First you have to test the film and know how to expose it normally.

After you've tested some film you may wish to use some filtering when shooting (adding a mag cc filter to fuji and new kodak films) to eas the pain of printing.

I find a world of difference between MF and 35mm crossed negs. I would recommend using MF.