Please don't change your way of working because of what I write if your results are as intended, but a few things caught my eye.

Quote Originally Posted by Loren Sattler View Post
With dektol at 1:2, the paper starts coming to life in about 10 seconds and is probably fully or nearly fully developed at about 30 seconds.
There is such a thing as 'full development' but it takes a long time. Midtones and highlights darken further at least until the paper fogs. I can clearly see a density difference in the highlights between a print developed for 1 or for 2 minutes.

Quote Originally Posted by Loren Sattler View Post
I do not make a test strip at my estimated final exposure time.
Impatient or not, you should. You cannot guess what the final print looks like from a small test strip. I'm afraid, with your method, you are just accepting a guess. I make a final full print in 1/12 stop around the estimated exposure time and another set in 1/4 grade around the estimated contrast. This often changes my final settings.

Quote Originally Posted by Loren Sattler View Post
Frankly, I doubt I could tell the difference between an RC print developed for 45 seconds vs. 60 seconds. I do not believe any more density appears in the final 15 seconds, but just in case the blacks are affected subtely, I develop full size prints for 60 seconds as the manufacturers data sheets call for.
I don't think I could either, but I can tell 1 minute from 2! The manufacturers' data sheets are made for impatient commercial lab workers, not for fine-art printers. They are just as reliable as the miles/gallon prediction of your car manufacturer. Data sheets are a good starting point, final values should come from customized testing.

Quote Originally Posted by Loren Sattler View Post
I have never seen a difference in a final print fixed for 3 minutes vs. the test print fixed for 10 seconds before turning on the lights.
I don't know how 10s fixing is even possible. It takes me longer to submerge, collect and drain the print. Anything less than 30s gives uneven fixing. You don't need to fix for more than 2 minutes. After 8 minutes the fixer starts to bleach the print visibly, but fixing times that long are purely academic anyway. Underfixing is the most common cause for print decay!

Quote Originally Posted by Loren Sattler View Post
With fiber paper, everything slows down some, but I apply the same thinking. Test strips are developed for a little over a minute, full size prints for 2 minutes.
There is a gigantic difference between 1 and 2 minutes development for FB printing. You must see that . I prefer factorial development for FB. After the print midtones are fully visible, I apply a factor of 6 to 8 to calculate the total development time. Usually, I end up with 3.5-4 minutes.

I prefer 1 excellent print a year over 100 mediocre prints a day.

Happy printing.