First, about the specs of the camera and useable lenses. While I don't own a Cham. 045 a minimum bellows draw of 45mm impies that a 47mm lens should be fine on a flat lens board. You never need a shorter bellows draw than the "flange to focal plane distance" (read "focal length") for your lens.
The max bellows draw is another story. The longest (normally constructed) lens you can use depends on how close you want to get with that lens. You can focus a 360mm lens at infinity and close to infinity but nothing closer. A 300mm maybe at head & shoulders distance or so. A 210 could be used for almost 1:1. (1:1 requires a bellows draw which is 2X the focal length.)

Many recommends a "normal" 150mm lens as a starter lens when learning LF photography. I do agree with that advice. The concept of tilts and swings is soo much easier to learn and understand with a 150-210 mm lens than e.g. a 90mm lens. You get bigger movements and the front/back are more spaced apart. This makes it easier to see what you are doing. I.e it's easier to see a 15 deg tilt which may be what is needed with e.g. a 180mm lens than a 3-4 deg tilt with a 90mm.
As long as the lens is in decent shape and the shutter works OK, it doesn't matter if the lens is quite old and worn. It's very hard to tell the difference between a 40 years old single coated (or even non-coated) lens from an expensive new lens when it comes to the final print. There are plenty of good used lenses in the 150-210mm range which can be found at very nice prices.
LF photography is quite different from 35mm or MF shooting. The shifts, tilts and swings does change the way focal lenghts are choosen, so while I love a 35mm on a Leica (and even the 38mm on my 'blad SWC), I seem to prefer a 210 on a LF camera, out of the number of different lenses I have.

//Björn