Originally Posted by kjsphoto
Several years ago I had the same question about an older partially filled bottle of HC-110 about 2 years old. I purchased a new bottle and processed two sheets of identically exposed Tri-X (I was making inter-positives for enlarged negatives) using the old and new developer at the same dilution and temp. I found virtually no difference in measured densities of the printed step wedges, less than 1/6 of a stop all across the scale.
Since you are unfamiliar with the developer I would recommend purchasing a new jug and doing a comparitive test.
As for stop bath, I use indicator stop for film or paper, I've never exhausted a batch of stop bath btw, but having using acid stop assures that development is terminated almost immediately and when processing paper it protects the fixer from alkaline carry over from the developer. In short I'm not a believer of water stops for film or paper. This includes use with staining film developers.
I use film strength fixer for fixing paper. A single bath of rapid fix for 1 minute and one minute only. The paper is then placed in a tray of water for a brief rinse and then placed in another holding tray before treating in hypo clear or perma wash. This works with most papers but not all, such as AZO and Kodak's premium VC fiber base paper whose name I'm blanking on now (which is no longer made I think).
Hope this helps,