Quote Originally Posted by kjsphoto
Well I finally got the head back and it is working!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now I have to still buy some paper and developer!


How can you tell if HC110 is still good. Someone gave me a bottle of it and it doesn't look that old but I never used it but always wanted to. Also how do you mix 1 gallon of it? I have some 4x5 negs I want to develop. The negs are N, N+1 and N-1 so will HC110 be the choice??

Oh yeah, again any more recommendations? The oriental paper seems to be out of stock and still clueless on developer.

Also do I use the same fix as I use for film? For stop bath do you use water or an actual stop bath solution? If so what kind?

I remember years ago we use to use Developer a stop bath ( chemical ) and a fixer then a 1 hour wash. But I do not remember what chemicals we used...

Thanks again!!!


As others have stated, the life of HC 110 is indefinite when kept as a concentrate and not mixed to a stock solution. You don't mention which film you are using. TriX will not expand much past N+1 with HC 110 even though that film/developer combination has been favored by many. Sometimes I find that I want more expansion then this combination offers. I have found other films that will expand more then that (Efke PL 100 and Tmax 400 as two). I don't use HC 110 currently. Preferring instead the Pyrocat formulation because of the proportional stain. The proportional stain gives better highlight tonal separation.

B&H Photo in New York has both Graded and VC Oriental Paper in stock. Prices are reasonable.

For stop bath, I mix 28 % acetic acid from glacial acetic acid. Then dilute from there. For film I mix stop bath at 1/4- 1/3 normal strength when I use Pyrocat or ABC Pyro developers for possible pinhole considerations. I use the normal dilution for paper.

I mix all of my own chemicals from individual componants. I find that this requires a scale capable of measuring in grams and tenths of grams. The cost of chemicals is not great. This method gives me a greater sense of personal creative output. One more area where I have been directly involved in the production of the finished print. This may not make much sense to anyone else but it makes a great deal of difference to me.