Quote Originally Posted by pdej4
Hi everyone,

I've just started developing 120mm roll film C41 negatives. I'm using the Jessops Photochem C41 Process Kit which consists of a two bath procedure - developer and blix. (I chose the Jessops kit because it was an easier solution and cheaper...could this explain my problem? In this case what other "kits" or chemicals should i consider - for general C41 processing?)

I've read elsewhere that blixes are not the best because they can leave a silver residue/grain on the film, but for me that isn't a major concern at the moment.

I read and followed the instructions to the letter, (I'm also using a daylight tank) and using the correct temps/altering times according to instructions where necessary. The only problem is that my negatives come out very dark - you can only see the image if you hold them up to a very bright light.

I know that the pictures have been exposed correctly and its simply a problem with my processing of them. I also don't think there were any light leaks due to the fact that I transferred the film into the daylight tight tank in a dark room with no windows/light in it.

Reading a previous thread kind of explained the differences between overexposed and overdeveloped. When holding up to the light the detail is very good - at least it is what i want, i'm just worried that if i take them to a printers i'll be wasting money.

Also what advantages does a stop bath have over the techniques using heated water (suggested in the instructions of the kit that i use)?

Is it likely that there is somthing wrong in my process? Should I try developing for longer or shorter? (I followed the instructions for this and the temps/times i used so far have been good, i.e. 38 degrees C/3mins 15 secs altering times accordingly) or using more/less developer? (1 developer, 2 water as per instructions).

If anybody has any suggestions I'd appreciate them!

How do you know the film is correctly exposed?

The advantage of using a stop bath is that development stops basically right away. With C-41 you're at 3 minutes 15 seconds. A 1 stop push is only 30 seconds longer. A little long with your timing. The time from pouring out the developer adds up. Then using water to "stop" the developer will add up. Suddenly you've pushed the film without knowing it.

Use a weak stop to minimize any potential problems with the acid and the developer. Try for around 1%.

If the negatives are really over processed then you don't want to increase the developer time. I'd try using stop before trying to cut down the processing time. If you're using enough developer to cover the film and to process the film [kit should tell you that] then using more won't help. Using less can cause problems. Remember you need the greater of the amount of liquid needed to process the film or the amount that is needed to cover the film.