Some background:
I shoot 5x7 primarily, with the discontinuance (announced or actual) of my favorite films, both black and white and color, I tried to find some suitable substitutes. This led me to start cutting down 8x10 film mostly Acros, VS100, and Portra 400 NC. I decided, being a weekend photographer, at best, that this, and any process involving individual tray processing were taking too large a proportion of the available time. So new rules - any film I use must be available in 5x7 and the film/developer must be able to be processed in a Jobo. This will enable me to spend more time shooting and printing.

yes, thanks for your comments, agitation as the enemy of Rodinal edge effects was always my impression. Then I read Ed Buffaloe's comments on his website the relevant quote is "However, Dr. Richard Henry, in Controls in Black and White Photography, states that his tests show adjacency effects are caused by “lateral diffusion in the emulsion layer” and are not dependent on agitation. In any case, Rodinal’s adjacency effects are well-documented and contribute to its reputation for sharpness." (Ed, hope you don't mind a quote from your website.)

This led me to believe that I might be able to get the sharpness of pyro using Rodinal in the jobo. Turns out not to be the case, or not noticed by me, anyway.

apologies, I haven't been following the Pyrocat thread. My understanding is that you can't buy it ready made and I don't have scales to mix it myself. It does sound like it might be the best of both world's, though.

What film are you using for your pyro/azo work? Tri-x seems capable of being developed to an extremely high contrast index. I probably won't on AZO for another couple weeks, but when I do, I'll make arrangements to send you a print.

All joking about testing aside, in a short time I've managed to develop a repeatable test suite that will allow me to compare finished prints of different film/developer combinations relatively quickly (hint, hint).