The best meter in the world is the one between your ears. What I use to do when I was shooting a lot of chromes (mainly KC25) was try and find something in the frame that was close to an 18% value. Since you are doing fairly static subjects you could use a grey card. Take one exposure reading in the shade and one in the sun and average them for your center value. Depending on subject matter and effect wanted you then bias it off center from there. Once you apply the appropriate high velocity fudge factor you then bracket in half stop increments.

It will take awhile to train your brain to think in same way your meter does, but once it clicks in you will be able to nail your shots alot easier. At first you may find you might need to bracket a bit more. Once you get your film back have someone else pick out what they think is the correct exposure from each subject. This in itself is very instructive as you may find you are always favoring darker shots but the viewing public wants something a bit brighter. They are not always right but it helps. Personally I find the pictures in the critique gallery to dark. But that may be the scans.

I also found spot meters to be almost useless for chrome work. A good incident meter such as the Gossen or Minolta are required as the reflective meters in cameras are fooled by subject color to much. Again it's a matter of getting to know your camera and/or meter. You have to run the usual tests when using a new meter to find out where you should put the asa.

I hope this helps, but there is no short cut to getting good consistant exposures. It just comes with experience.

And remember ALWAYS USE A LENSHOOD! Even on cloudy days.

Another thing, you should give away the Leica and get a real camera. Just because I like you, I'll take it off your hands.

Eric