I printed color for the first 7 years on such a set, until a good deal on a dichroic enlarger found me.
A pocket calculator and a scratch pad will be your friend to help find the corrected times after a filter change once you are happly with the exposure.
I would recommend hunting down a print viewing filter set; it will help you better to judge which change in filtration is required faster than just a ring around poster, although the ones from the old Kodak dataguides are good.
Another good tool to get you better at printing colur is a printing filter matrix ( I think mine is called ektacolor, but there are other brands) that you contact print over the part of an image that you project from the enlarger containing a grey card in the neg. You shoot the grey card to fill half of a frame of 35mm under the light conditions that the balance of the film is being shot under. Then the print is processed and you look at the matrix image and figure out which one gives you good density amd gives you good neutral grey and correct exposure and filtration for the next go around. Once you find the filtration the balance of the roll filtration should be substantially the same.
If you are thinking about RA-4 in the future, I would recommend that you start to standardize on one or two C-41 films now (say one 100 iso and one 400 iso) and one place to get it developed. Then find a way to at least take a shot o fa grey card under daylight and tungsten illumination once or twice with each film type. This will give you a basis to start printing from in the future. The mask color of all films are not created equal, and different places do not all give the same look after development in what is purported to be a standard c-41 development process.
Printing color effectively is all about controlling a multitude of variables. Start early, and by the time you print there will be fewer variables to deal with as you are learning.