Some quick tips:
- It's all about the first developer. Other steps don't affect too much. Test with unexposed sheet and a much exposed sheet, you have to get proper black and white.
- If you encounter cyan / not white highlights, don't waste time trying to correct it with filtration. It won't work no matter how hard you try and you just mess the shadows and midtones. You have to lenghten development time (doesn't work very well), add more developing agents to developer (fighting against bromide and thus not so good solution, but works) or to scratch-mix first dev like I described before (it's really the easiest way, I highly recommend it!!)
- If you get the cyan problem, you will find that you can get better whites by adding much exposure. But it's not much of use if you mess your midtones, so, adding exposure is not a solution to the highlight problems. You have to chemically modify the first developer.
- Two-step wash without running water after FD is enough if you change the waters after every few sheets, but if you have running water, it's easy and safe to use it so I recommend running water.
- 30 second reverse exposure is enough but only if you take the paper very near to your lamp.
- Fix exposure first, then filtration, because overexposed sheet will appear magenta and underexposed green.
- Use much dodge&burn because of high contrast. When you burn, you may adjust magenta filtration lower for burning to avoid magenta crossover.
- If you add sulfite to color developer, you can still use the same developer in normal RA-4 as a low-contrast developer.