Home poked. Commercially available pinholes are made for convenience. Hardly anyone can afford a really good one. Most people doing pinhole don't know what's possible.

Mine are made using a needle in a pin vise in .003" pure silver. First I make the hole too big, then I hammer it to make it too small, enlarge it with the needle again, hammer it again, enlarge it, rehammer, you get the idea. I have polished a ball peen hammer and anvil for this purpose. I don't know the resultant thickness, but it is very thin, and the hole is basically knife edged. At each stage, I file any burr with a very fine jeweler's file. The metal is domed, with the hole in the middle of the dome. I use a projection microscope, and I don't stop the process until it is perfectly round and absolutely clean. This is a very laborious process, and since my eyes aren't what they once were, it's getting more difficult all the time.

A long time ago, I used feeler guages (automotive) to set the diameter I wanted into a fly tying vise, and used that to set the needle's depth of penetration. Those were great, but the ones I make now are better. You can probably find the fly tying method online somewhere. It was published in Pinhole Journal back in the mid 1980's.

There you go. The secret is out. Make one like that, you won't believe the quality of the image you get. My pinholes have been criticized as being "too damn sharp" by pinhole nutcases.

With different distances from the hole to the film, you will most likely see fringing. Is that what you want? It might be very interesting. If I were doing it, I'd make the distances the same.

Larry