It likely has a light sensing probe and base unit with a paper sensitivity dial, a time dial (likely both have log scales) and maybe a set once overall calibration dial, as well as some way to figure when the sense bridge has been balanced. There is likely a switch to swing it from balance mode to expose mode, and a button to initaite exposure. It may have a socke for the safelight, and want to extinguish the safelight when balancing the bridge. I describe it generially because they all work similarly; I have a Melico.

You make a print without the ananlyser. Note the time that made it Don't change anything on the enlarger, except perhaps to remove filtration if you printed with a filter in the light path. Put the probe on the baseboard where the first hint of tone away from pure white happens in the successful print.

Set the unit in expose mode, and press the expose start button. Note how long the enlarger light stays on once it has been connected to the enlarger socket on this device. It won't match the successful exposure time on first try. Adjust and iterate the test unitl the timer leaves the enlarger on for as long as the test print took.

Don't touch the time adjust dial again for now, and leave the spot probe in place as well. Turn off the safe light (if not switched thought the timer/analyser) Adjust the paper sesnitivity dial unit the bridge balances. If there is a thrid overall dial, it may need to be tweaked to allow the paper sensitivity dial to get into its mid range to balance the bridge. Once the overall sensitivity range is set it is not changed unit you change enlargers, or the bulb burns out, maybe.

Now change the head elevation of the enlarger, and refocus. Put the spot probe in the same place as you proviously wanted to place the lightest tone away from white - usually the densest part of the neg that still contains information (but perhaps not clouds in a sunny sky line for landscapes, which will likely need burning in).

Now, withotu changing the paper sensitivity dial, adjust the time dial to make the bidge indicator balance. You may need to adjust the lens aperture if the change was large. make the print, using the ananlyser to time the enlarger. It wil adjust the time so the same amount of light intensity hits the paper at the new head height. Then, once you are set up, you are set to go with that paper on any negative.

I write the paper speed on the paper envelope for future reference. Paper speed can vary with different filtration, and not all probes are multi spectrally snesitive, so I have described how to work with white light; you might need to flick filters in and out; you might not.


You can also set them up to test for contrast range. Set time to 1, and meter the thinnest spot in neg projection where you want detail in the shadows. Adjust paper speed to balance bridge. Move spot to densest part of neg, where you ant to place just white. leave paper speed alone, and move time dial to see how much more time than the 1 setting to get tone in the dense part. My unit when it measures 2 needs a grade 4 or higher paper, when it reads 10 or more needs a grade 1 or less paper, and I have calibrated it for points in between. Be sure to reset paper speed to that which suits the paoer after this test.

If the timer analyser has colour filters and different sensitivities for different colours then it is meant for colour printing, but what I have described here can let you use the device to pick the white light filter position in the spot head, and likely use it the way I have outlined. Hope you find this help info is worthwhile.