Another way to control light intensity is to make a series of "Waterhouse Stops" to fit over the #3 green safelight. I use a Kodak "beehive" safelight (5-1/2 inch ?? diameter), and by experimentation I determined what diameter each stop should be for 125 speed film, 400 speed film, etc.. That way I'm confident that the light output is constant, and that the color temperature of the bulb has not been unduly shifted by reduced voltage from the dimmer.
Where did you learn about latensification? As I recall, I read about it in an article that David Vestal attributed to Ralph Steiner (Darkroom Techniques, circa 1984???), and have been using it ever since. 35mm, 120/220, 4x5, 5x7, 8x20, Ilford, Kodak, Fuji, it makes no difference, latensification works great. Thanks for reminding us of this little known technique...