I use a frosted white bulb, so I can't say for sure regarding the clear one, but I'm certain you can get it to work.
Originally Posted by bvy
I have an aperture stop on the bottom of the soup can. I don't have a photo of the setup available, but I'll do my best to describe it.
The soup can is upside down; the power cord goes through a hole in the top; I use a rubber grommet to keep the metal from chaffing the insulation on the wires.
The wires are short enough to permit the socket and bulb to hang inside the can without protruding out the open bottom.
I have an aperture stop covering the bottom, with about a 3mm hole. The hole size isn't important, except you will want to calibrate the size to permit adequately long preflashing times for your process, based on how far above the work surface it is suspended. I hang mine about 30" above the table; this height was chosen only because it's conveniently located to hang off one of the parts of my Beseller 4x5 enlarger. The important thing here is that it's far enough above the table that the light distribution is even; too close to the paper and the center may get more exposure than the corners.
I'm not certain about ventilation in the can to keep it from overheating; my design uses a plastic flange from a 2" plumbing fixture, that fits inside the can's opening but permits a bit of air to get around the edges. A black paper disc is inside the opening of this flange, with the aperture stop. The insides of the can and the plastic flange are painted black. You could just try a piece of black craft (scrapbooking) paper, taped over the opening in the can with black gaffers or electrical tape for starters, then see if the can heats up too much.
As for the non-frosted bulb, if you're worried about the small aperture in the light source producing some pinhole imaging artifacts of the bulb's filament, you could perhaps use a small piece of wax paper over the aperture in the can, which should diffuse the light enough.
Again, it's a simple device; the whole intent is to permit preflash times that are repeatable, by them being sufficiently long (like 5-10 seconds) in duration so as to permit use of a darkroom enlarger timer.
Good luck, hope to see some results soon.