I have the F100, F and the FM and used to have an EM but far and away my favorite Nikon I have is the F100.
It has auto focus and exposure but you don't have to use it. the meter is great, it has TTL flash metering and you can pick one up in new condition for around 250. My F meter kept going dead, the FM has been in the shop a number of times and every time the repairman pointed out that the repair costs more than buying another used one.