The print eliminates its fixer thru diffusion. Difffusion is created by the print having a higher concentration of fixer than the surrounding water. Agitation is necessary to quicken the diffusion of fixer into the wash water. However, a great amount of agitationn is not superior to a small amount. Additionally, washing is made more efficient with a higher temperature. 80F is saod to be ideal. Even more important is the use of a wash aid. The chea[est form of this is 2% sodiuk sulphite. Most efficient is the use of a hypo eliminator made from hydrogen peroxide and ammonia. There is a difference of opinion on the use of hypo eliminator. Some believe that it weakens fiber based paper. Some papers tend to frill and lose emulsion with hypo eliminator.

The best technique would call for the use of film strength rapid fixer without hardener. I use two baths at 45 seconds each. The hardener makes washing less efficient. The short immersion in the two fixers prevents the paper from absorbing too much fixer.

A Kodak tray syphon is capable of good print washing.

Water changes and shuffling prints while washing is time consuming but in no way inferior to using a print washer.

There is only one reasonable way to tell how well your prints are washed...a residual hypo test. This is available at Photographer's Formulary.

In the decades to come you will feel that the time and effort in achieving a thorough washing of your prints was well spent.