Mods to Paterson Orbital for 10x8 film
Just thought I'd let you know what I have done and why, in case you are considering using one for film.
I wanted a simple daylight method for 10x8 film, so tried my old orbital.
Problem one - it leaked light. I only found out where the flaw was by accident, as I washed and dried it in a hot airing cupboard, it expanded and voila: the crack became visible. Superglue fixed this.
Problem 2 - Clearing the fiilm base. Normally the film can suck to the base of the orbital tray and not clear. I bonded some fibreglass drying mesh to the base to prevent sticking. The film now rises and falls a few mm and solutions get right underneath.
probelm 3 - The convex runners that keep the (what should be paper)_ close to the base of the tray and therefore under solution cut gouges out of the emulsion of the Maco up100 (Efke/pl100??) I was using. This film is known to be soft, but this made me concerned for its use with ANY films. Solution. I cut of the runners and filed the edges smooth. I figured the film would not rise nearly far enough to 'hit the roof' now.
Result. Using 200 to 400 ml developer, evenly developed and scratch free....finally. Stil not getting density from this film in pyrocat (bizarre I know as efke pl100 is raved about in pyrocat, assuming my maco up100 is the same stuff - sure looks like it)......off to try DDX (to rescue some flat negs) for more shadow and I hope overall density! I have used the pyrocat even at 2:2:100 with 400ml, so with 8ml each A+B, it not due to a shortage of dev! Why does this Efke/pyrocat combo work for evryone else and not me!