I have a hazmat depot that very happily takes my wastes. It is a bit of a trip to drop it off though, and I usually only go there in the spring or fall when I have yard waste to drop off and not wanting to to cut every thing to 24" long bits and put it out in tiny bundles.

So through the winter I take fixer as it becomes saturated with silver, and add it to an evaporation pan that lives in the garage. The evaporation pan I have is a stainless steel food services warming tray that came from the thrift shop for $1. It is about 8" wide, 4" deep, and 24" long. The liquid likely lays frozen in it for a good part of the winter. It sits on top of an upright freezer that rarely runs, but in the spring, between the heat of the freezer and my wife parking her car there each night, the stuff gradually evaporates. By mid april, when yard clean up begins for me, the fixer is a yellow crust on top, and a sludge underneath. 5 or 6L of fixer is down to about 1L of fixer sludge. I pack it in a bottle, label it as silver rich fixer, and take it to the HHW.

I have an associate at a camera club on a septic field who decants exhausted rapid only fixer slowly thorough ( at a rate of a few litres per day) a cascade that includes two large coffee cans he has packed with uncoated steel wool pot scrubbers. It yields an output that is only trace silver, and he uses the ammonia leftovers to go in the watering can, to fertilize the garden.

Developers I dump in a bucket with a fish tank bubbler, and run it until they are black to cut thier Base Oxygen Demand (BOD). I then make them neutral by mixing in paper stop bath that is tending to exhaustion itself. I could give up Dektol and go with Ansco 130, because I love its look, and it lasts almost forever. It turns black, but if you run it at a few degrees warmer than 20C the glycin developing agent goes on and on, and developing times are closer to 2'.

Toners can to some degrees be reused. The chrome bleach from sepia toners can go on for a very long time being reused until it looses its orange and starts to green. I save up waste test strips and work prints to drive it over the edge to full green. The chrome is much less nasty once it is green, then it goes to hhw labelled as to what it is. I use the sulfide toners (kodak sepia) in the summer when venting is easier, and thoirea ones in the winter. The copper toners and iron toners I leave in jugs and turn in; I have dehydrated them as well to cut volume.

For selenium I use KRST at 1:20 and 1:8 and use it after prints have had a short wash, and the solution goes back into the storage bottle. It seems to go on forever this way.

I hope some of these ideas can help you out.